NEW TWISTS ON LAST SEASON TRENDS
Don't throw out your checks just yet. Twists on tartan and chequerboard featured from Meadham Kirchhoff and Mother of Pearl to Simone Rocha, Daks, J JS Lee, Jonathan Saunders and personal favourite Vivienne Westwood Red Label.
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| L-R: Meadham Kirchhoff, J JS Lee, Jonathan Saunds, Daks All photographs - Vogue |
Pastels aren't going anywhere, but they are changing hue! Think everything muted - camel, blush, periwinkle and dove grey - instead of the pistachio greens, canary yellows and candyfloss pinks of S/S14. Oh and more hints and tints than head to toe. I loved Ashish, Meadham Kirchhoff, Jasper Conran and Holly Fulton.
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| L-R: Ashish, Holly Fulton, Meadham Kirchhoff, Jasper Conran All photographs - Vogue |
Glitter, leather, satin and shine celebrated the new season across almost every catwalk, from subtle hints to all out disco ball. Metallics across the board from Marques Almeida, Pinghe, Fyodor Golan and Meadham Kirchhoff (again) to Ashish, Tom Ford, Bernard Chandran and House of Holland.
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| L-R: Marques Almeida, Tom Ford, House of Holland, Fyodor Golan All photographs - Vogue |
This super wearable trend is going nowhere, although more reinvented as classic separates of black and white worn together than mixed prints this season. Best seen at KTZ, Bora Aksu, Tom Ford and Matthew Williamson, although tones of black and grey swept across almost every show.
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| L-R: Matthew Williamson, Lara Quint, KTZ, Bora Aksu All photographs - Vogue |
Prints were magnified and in all shapes and sizes - some digital, some graphic, some hand printed, with emphasis on colour blocking and firm, structured lines. Osman, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, Mother of Pearl, Roksanda Ilincic, Burberry Prorsum, Temperley, Tata Naka - I could go on!
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| Top L-R: Osman, Tata Naka, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto Bottom L-R: Matthew Williamson, Burberry Prorsum, Roksanda Ilincic, Mother of Pearl All photographs - Vogue |
NEW TRENDS ON THE BLOCK
Sleek, structured, tailored and feminine were the order of the day. Barbara Casasola, Simone Rocha (I think this was her best collection yet), David Koma, Daks, Antipodium, Holly Fulton all championed ladylike silhouettes. Think pencil skirts, demure, girly yet not an ounce of flounce in sight for this look (unless you're oversizing fur up top) - perfect with the new pastels.
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| L-R: Simone Rocha, Barbara Casasola, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Daks All photographs - Vogue |
Oh wow is fur back with a bang. It was everywhere... actually I think it literally was everywhere. In no order, the fluffier side featured at Simongao, KTZ, Osman, Simone Rocha, Marques Almeida, Tom Ford, Peter Pilotto, Matthew Williamson, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Topshop Unique, House of Holland, Eudon Choi and many more besides. Phew!
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| L-R: Topshop Unique, House of Holland, Eudon Choi, Tom Ford All photographs - Vogue |
These hues popped up time and time again. Orange was bold and zesty or decidedly burnt, blue went the whole hog from pale sky to the lighter side of cobalt to darkest navy, and grey may just be the new white (which was the S/S14's new black, FYI). I think blue more than grey has popped up a fair amount the last few seasons, but it's the glow of orange I long to embrace. Notable at Giles, Lulu Liu, Michael van der Ham, Zeynup Tosen, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Palmer - Harding, Preen and Jasper Conran.
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| Top L-R: Zeynep Tosun, Antipodium, Michael van der Ham, Lulu Liu Bottom L-R: Preen, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Jasper Conran, Palmer - Harding All photographs - Vogue |
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| L-R: Mark Fast, Margaret Howell, Temperley, Barnard Chandran All photographs - Vogue |
A decidedly folky turn of events, most evident at Sibling, Burberry Prorsum (which I just adore season to season). Roksanda Ilincic, famous for her colour blocking, also went down the 70s route with flowing lengths and plenty of camel which was also seen at Topshop Unique, Jasper Conran, Daks and Holly Fulton.
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| L-R: Burberry Prorsum, Roksanda Ilincic, Ong Oaj Pairam, ISSA All photographs - Vogue |
Fashion comes in with a roar and a growl for this season's sssssstyle! Snake and leopard print featured at Topshop Unique, Simone Rocha and Tom Ford in dark and neutral hues. Hiss!
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| L-R: Topshop Unique, Simone Rocha, Tom Ford, Simone Rocha All photographs - Vogue |
Lauren will update you on the best of the beauty trends, but my personal favourite was at Vivienne Westwood Red Label just for its sheer elegance and wearability (flawless skin, strong brows and super flushed lips with undone hair). I also really want the Markus Lupfer bob!
I hope you enjoyed the write up - hooray new season!
Felicity
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